About This Pattern
This dress is not a small thing, but it is made of small things. A basket-weave bodice panel. A peplum frill. A lace skirt that catches light. Each part sits on the last, so you finish one evening's work and feel it. It fits into a season of quiet sessions, not one long sitting. It needs four colors, two hook sizes, and patience with post stitches. Wear it over a slip, since the skirt lace is meant to show through.
In the basket
Optional
Abbreviations
- beg
- beginning
- BPdc
- back post double crochet
- ch
- chain
- ch-sp
- chain space
- dc
- double crochet (yarn over, insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops twice)
- dec
- decrease
- FPdc
- front post double crochet
- hdc
- half double crochet
- inc
- increase
- lp(s)
- loop(s)
- MC
- main colour (whichever colour is currently active)
- rep
- repeat
- rnd
- round
- RS
- right side
- sc
- single crochet (insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through both loops)
- sk
- skip
- sl st
- slip stitch
- sp
- space
- st(s)
- stitch(es)
- t-ch
- turning chain
- tog
- together
- WS
- wrong side
- yo
- yarn over
Ocean wave peplum dress with basket-weave bodice and lace skirt
Bodice Front Panel
Using Colour A and E-4 / 3.5 mm hook, chain 82 (74, 90, 98, 106).
- Round 1(RS): Dc in 4th chain from hook (counts as 2 dc). Dc in each chain across. Turn. 80 (72, 88, 96, 104) dcYour stitch count must be a multiple of 4 for the basket-weave pattern. For size S, 80 divided by 4 equals 20 repeats.
- Round 2WS, Basket-Weave Row A Ch 3, skip first st. 2 FPdc around each of next 2 sts, 2 BPdc around each of next 2 sts. Rep from to last st. Dc in top of ch-3. Turn. 80 (72, 88, 96, 104) sts
- Round 3RS, Basket-Weave Row B Ch 3, skip first st. 2 BPdc around each of next 2 sts, 2 FPdc around each of next 2 sts. Rep from to last st. Dc in top of ch-3. Turn. 80 (72, 88, 96, 104) sts
- Round 4WS, Basket-Weave Row C Ch 3, skip first st. 2 BPdc around each of next 2 sts, 2 FPdc around each of next 2 sts. Rep from to last st. Dc in top of ch-3. Turn. 80 (72, 88, 96, 104) sts
- Round 5RS, Basket-Weave Row D Ch 3, skip first st. 2 FPdc around each of next 2 sts, 2 BPdc around each of next 2 sts. Rep from to last st. Dc in top of ch-3. Turn. 80 (72, 88, 96, 104) stsRows 6 through 9: Repeat Rows 2 through 5. Change to Colour B at the end of Row 6. 80 (72, 88, 96, 104) sts Continue the Basket-Weave Rows A through D in sequence with these colour changes:Rows 1 through 6: Colour A Rows 7 through 12: Colour B
- Round 13through 18: Colour B transitioning into Colour C Continue until the bodice front measures 12 (11.5, 12.5, 13, 13.5) inches / 30.5 (29, 32, 33, 34) cm from the foundation chain. This is approximately 24 (23, 25, 26, 27) rows total. Fasten off.
Straps (Make 2)
Using Colour A and E-4 / 3.5 mm hook, chain 80 (76, 80, 80, 80) or to desired length.
- Round 1Sc in 2nd chain from hook. Sc in each chain across. Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch / 30 cm tail for sewing.Sew one end of each strap to the front neckline approximately 2 inches / 5 cm in from each side edge. Sew the other ends to the back neckline at matching positions. Try on or check on a dress form and adjust strap length before securing. Steam block the straps if they curl before attaching.
Armhole and Neckline Edging
With Colour A and E-4 / 3.5 mm hook, attach yarn at one side seam of the armhole opening.
- Round 1Work sc evenly around the armhole opening, placing 1 sc per stitch along horizontal edges and approximately 1 sc per 2 rows along vertical edges. Join with sl st to first sc. Approximately 36 (36, 40, 44, 44) sc
- Round 2Ch 1. Sc in each sc around. Join with sl st. Fasten off. Repeat for the second armhole.For the neckline, with Colour A, attach yarn at one shoulder strap position on the front neckline. Work 1 round of sc across the entire top neckline edge front and back, working 1 sc per stitch. Join. Fasten off.
Peplum Frill
The peplum is worked in the round along the bottom edge of the joined bodice. Use Colour B and E-4 / 3.5 mm hook throughout.
Setup Round: With RS facing, attach Colour B at one side seam at the bottom edge of the bodice. Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each stitch around the bottom edge of the bodice. Join with sl st to first sc.
Stitch count around bottom edge: XS: 72 sc S: 80 sc M: 88 sc L: 96 sc XL: 104 sc
- Round 1Peplum increase round Ch 3 (counts as dc). Work 2 dc in each sc around. Join with sl st to top of ch-3.XS: 144 dc S: 160 dc M: 176 dc L: 192 dc XL: 208 dc
- Round 2Ch 3. Dc in next 3 sts. 2 dc in next st. Rep from around. Join with sl st to top of ch-3.XS: 180 dc S: 200 dc M: 220 dc L: 240 dc XL: 260 dc
- Round 3(Shell round, using 5-stitch repeat): Ch 1. (Dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in next st, skip 1 st, sl st in next st, skip 1 st. Rep from 40 (36, 44, 48, 52) times around. Join with sl st.
XS: 36 shells S: 40 shells M: 44 shells L: 48 shells XL: 52 shells
- Round 4(Scallop hem of peplum): Working into the tops of the shell stitches and sl sts from Round 3: Skip the sl st, work 5 dc in the centre dc of each shell, sl st in next sl st between shells. Rep from around. Join. Fasten off.
The peplum should hang approximately 3 to 3.5 inches / 7.5 to 9 cm below the bodice waist edge with a ruffled, scalloped hem.
Skirt Lace Section
The lace is worked in a repeating sequence. One complete repeat adds approximately 1.25 in / 3.2 cm in length.
Lace Round A (Arch round): Ch 1. Ch 5, skip 4 sts, sc in next st. Rep from around. Join with sl st to first sc.
XS: 32 arches / S: 36 arches / M: 40 arches / L: 44 arches / XL: 48 arches
Lace Round B (Shell fill round): Sl st into first ch-5 arch space. Ch 3 (counts as dc). 4 dc in same arch. Ch 2, sc in next arch, ch 2, 5 dc in next arch. Rep from around, ending ch 2, sc in last arch, ch 2. Join with sl st to top of ch-3.
Lace Round C (Increase arch round): Ch 1. Sc in top centre dc of next 5-dc shell, ch 5, sc in next sc, ch 5. Rep from around. Join with sl st.
This round doubles your arch count: XS: 64 arches / S: 72 arches / M: 80 arches / L: 88 arches / XL: 96 arches
Lace Round D (Full shell round): Sl st into first ch-5 arch. Ch 3. 4 dc in same arch. Ch 2, sc in next arch, ch 2, 5 dc in next arch. Rep from around, ending ch 2, sc in last arch, ch 2. Join.
Work the lace in this order:
- Round 1and 2 of lace: Work Lace Round A, then Lace Round B (no increase)Rounds 3 and 4 of lace: Work Lace Round C, then Lace Round D (expands the skirt)Rounds 5 and 6 of lace: Work Lace Round A, then Lace Round B at new widthRounds 7 and 8 of lace: Work Lace Round C, then Lace Round D (expands again) Continue this pattern until the skirt measures approximately 11 to 12 in / 28 to 30 cm from the joining round. This results in approximately 8 to 10 tiers of lace total.Colour change for skirt gradient: Begin in Colour C. After completing 4 tiers (8 rounds), transition to Colour D (white).
The final arch count at the hem: XS: 128 arches / S: 144 arches / M: 160 arches / L: 176 arches / XL: 192 arches The hem circumference will be approximately:
XS: 44 in / 112 cm S: 50 in / 127 cm M: 55 in / 140 cm L: 60 in / 152 cm XL: 66 in / 168 cm
Bodice Back Panel
Work exactly as the Bodice Front Panel through all rows. After the final row, do not fasten off. Continue with the neckline finishing below.
Checkpoint 1
After completing both panels, each piece should measure approximately 12 (11.5, 12.5, 13, 13.5) in / 30.5 (29, 32, 33, 34) cm tall and 16 (14.5, 17.5, 19, 20.5) in / 40.5 (37, 44.5, 48, 52) cm wide. The basket-weave texture should be clearly visible and consistent. Lay flat and measure before seaming.
Seaming the Bodice
Hold front and back panels with wrong sides together so right sides face outward. Using a yarn needle and Colour B or matching colour, whipstitch the side seams from the bottom edge up to 2.5 inches / 6.5 cm below the top edge. This leaves the armhole opening, which should measure approximately 5 (5, 5.5, 6, 6) in / 12.5 (12.5, 14, 15, 15) cm deep.
After seaming both sides, you have a joined bodice tube. The total circumference at the bottom waist edge is 32 (29, 35, 38.5, 41.5) in / 81 (73.5, 89, 98, 105) cm.
Skirt
The skirt is attached at the waist, just above the peplum. It’s picked up from the same bottom edge of the bodice. The peplum will hang over the top of the skirt, concealing the joining round.
Change to F-5 / 3.75 mm hook and Colour C.
- Round 1Joining Round Attach Colour C at one side seam at the same bottom edge of the bodice. Ch 1. Work 1 sc in each sc around the bottom edge. Join with sl st.(1)
- Round 2XS: 72 sc S: 80 sc M: 88 sc L: 96 sc XL: 104 sc Expansion Round 1: Ch 1. Sc in next 3 sts. 2 sc in next st. Rep from around. Join with sl st.(104)
- Round 3XS: 90 sc / S: 100 sc / M: 110 sc / L: 120 sc / XL: 130 sc Expansion Round 2: Ch 1. Sc in next 4 sts. 2 sc in next st. Rep from around. Join with sl st.(130)
- Round 4XS: 108 sc / S: 120 sc / M: 132 sc / L: 144 sc / XL: 156 sc Expansion Round 3: Ch 1. Sc in next 5 sts. 2 sc in next st. Rep from around. Join with sl st.(156)
- Round 5XS: 126 sc / S: 140 sc / M: 154 sc / L: 168 sc / XL: 182 sc Expansion Round 4: Ch 1. Sc in next 6 sts. 2 sc in next st. Rep from around. Join with sl st.(182)
- Round 6XS: 144 sc / S: 160 sc / M: 176 sc / L: 192 sc / XL: 208 sc(208)
- Round 7Expansion Round 5: Ch 1. Sc in next 7 sts. 2 sc in next st. Rep from around. Adjust to reach the following final counts (divisible by 10 for the lace pattern). Join with sl st.(2)
- Round 8XS: 160 sc / S: 180 sc / M: 200 sc / L: 220 sc / XL: 240 sc(240)
Before the first stitch
- Check your yardage against your size before you start Colour A, since amounts change by size.
- Swatch the basket-weave pattern first. You need 20 stitches and 16 rows to equal 4 inches with the E-4 hook.
- Set out six stitch markers. You will want them for the stitch pickup between bodice, peplum, and skirt.
Minutes per piece
- Bodice Front and Back Panels about 10 to 15 hours, because six rounds of basket weave take careful post-stitch counting
- Peplum and Skirt Lace Section about 25 to 35 hours, because the open lace motif is the slowest, most time-intensive part
Other yarns that work
- Fingering weight acrylic Gives smoother drape in the lace skirt, but check gauge still hits 22 to 26 stitches per 4 inches.
- Light sport weight cotton-blend Holds bodice shape well, but avoid overly stretchy blends since the bodice needs structure.
Where it ends up
- Wear it for an evening out, paired with a fitted slip underneath.
- Wear it to a garden gathering, paired with simple sandals.
- Wear it as a layering piece, paired with a long-sleeve top beneath the lace skirt.
Joining up
- Step 1 Work a final scallop edging round around the hem using the scallop edging stitch described earlier. Block your dress using blocking mats and pins, paying special attention to opening up the lace motifs in the skirt. Steam lightly or wet block according to your yarn’s care instructions.
Small notes
- Mark your FPdc and BPdc rows as you go. Basket weave is easy to lose track of mid-row.
- Plan your color changes before you start Colour B. The ombre effect depends on where each color begins.
Little questions
Can I skip the slip lining under the skirt?
I would not skip it. The skirt lace is intentionally open and sheer. A slip or fitted bodysuit keeps it elegant rather than see-through.
Why does the pattern use two different hook sizes?
The E-4 hook keeps the bodice firm so it holds its shape. The F-5 hook gives the skirt lace its drape. This is intentional, not a typo.
What if my gauge does not match 20 stitches over 4 inches?
Swatch the basket-weave pattern before casting on the bodice. If your count is off, try a different hook size to match the bodice gauge.
How do I know if I am intermediate enough for this pattern?
You should feel comfortable with FPdc and BPdc, lace motif rounds, and picking up stitches from a finished edge. If those feel new, practice a swatch first.
Original pattern: https://crochr.com/ocean-wave-peplum-dress-free-crochet-pattern/
About the Author
Tamsin Okoro Who writes the patterns at Yarn Gallery, how a pattern gets from the hook to the page, and what this site will never do.
