About This Pattern
This bracelet is small but layered. It fits into one evening if you split it by piece. You work a lace band, a spiral rose, five maple leaves, and beaded chains, then join them. It needs patience more than skill. The thread is fine, the hook is tiny, and the leaves take real attention. Set aside a quiet stretch for the shaping rounds. The reward is a piece that reads more like jewelry than yarn.
Skill level: advanced beginner to intermediate. The individual stitches are all basic ones you probably already know; the challenge comes from working with fine thread and a tiny hook, plus managing the leaf shaping and final assembly. If you've never worked with thread crochet before, practice on a small swatch first — the thread is thinner than standard yarn and the hook feels different in your hand.
In the basket
Color A
Color B
Color C
Recommended brands
Beads
Abbreviations
- Picot
- Chain 3, slip stitch into the first chain made. Creates a small decorative loop.
- Bead Single Crochet (bsc)
- Before working this stitch, slide one pre-strung bead up close to your hook. Insert hook into the indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (the bead sits on the front of your work), yarn over and pull through both loops. The bead is now anchored in place.
- ch
- chain. Wrap yarn over hook, pull through loop on hook.
- sl st
- slip stitch. Insert hook, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop on hook in one motion.
- sc
- single crochet. Insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops.
- hdc
- half double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop (3 loops), yarn over, pull through all 3 loops.
- dc
- double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop (3 loops), yarn over, pull through 2 loops (2 remain), yarn over, pull through last 2 loops.
- tr
- treble crochet. Yarn over twice, insert hook, pull up a loop (4 loops), [yarn over, pull through 2 loops] three times.
- sp
- space
- ch-sp
- chain space
- st/sts
- stitch/stitches
- RS/WS
- right side/wrong side
- sk
- skip
- yo
- yarn over
- rep
- repeat
- beg
- beginning
- rem
- remaining
- tog
- together
Maple leaf vine bracelet with rose and beaded chains
Section 1: Base Band
The base band forms the foundation of your bracelet. The working section measures approximately 5.5 inches (14 cm), with additional length for the sliding closure cords.
Using Color A and 1.65 mm hook with beads pre-strung: Foundation Chain: Ch 170.
- Row 1(RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across. Turn. (169 sc)
- Row 2Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk 1 st, dc in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next st across to last st, dc in last st. Turn. (85 dc, 83 ch-1 sps)
- Row 3Ch 1, sc in first dc, bsc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next dc across, sc in top of turning ch-3. Turn. (85 sc with beads in alternating positions)
This row creates the decorative beaded top edge. The beads should face toward you on the right side.
- Row 4Ch 3, sk 1 st, dc in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next st across to last st, dc in last st. Turn. (85 dc, 83 ch-1 sps)
- Row 5Ch 1, sc in each st and ch-1 sp across. Turn. (169 sc)
- Row 6Ch 1, sc in each st across. Do not turn. (169 sc) Edging: Slip stitch evenly along the short right-hand edge (3 sl sts), then sl st along the bottom foundation chain edge across. Sl st up the left short edge. Fasten off.Weave in ends from the band body only. Leave two long tail cords at each short end, approximately 8 to 10 inches each. These become your sliding closure cords.Checkpoint: Your band should measure approximately 5 to 5.5 inches long and 0.5 inch wide. The beaded row runs along the top edge.
Section 2: Spiral Rose
The rose is worked as a flat strip with graduated shells, then coiled and stitched into a dimensional bloom.
Using Color A and 1.65 mm hook: Foundation Chain: Ch 65.
- Row 1(RS): Starting in 4th ch from hook (counts as dc, ch 1), work: In ch 4 from hook: (dc, ch 1, dc) for first shell baseSk 2 ch, in next ch: (dc, ch 1, dc)Repeat 12 more times. (14 shells total)You’ll use 46 chains for the shells. The remaining 19 chains at the far end become the tight center of the rose.
- Row 2Ch 4, turn. Working along the top of Row 1 shells from outermost back toward center: Shells 1 through 4 (outer): (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in each ch-1 spShells 5 through 9 (middle): (dc, ch 1, dc) in each ch-1 sp Shells 10 through 14 (inner): sc in each ch-1 sp Do not fasten off. (14 graduated shell units)
- Row 3Ch 1, sl st into first dc of Row 2, picot, sl st into next dc or ch-1 sp across outer shell posts on shells 1 through 4 only. Fasten off, leaving a 20-inch tail.
Assembling the Rose:
Beginning at the end with the 19 unused foundation chains (this is your center nub), roll the strip tightly inward. The shorter inner edge faces inward while the taller, picoted outer edge faces outward and upward.
Use your long tail and tapestry needle to stitch through the base of the coil repeatedly, catching each layer as you roll. Stitch a flat circle of stitches at the base to stabilize. The finished rose should sit upright and rounded, approximately 1.25 inches in diameter.
Checkpoint: Your rose should have 3 to 4 visible outer spiral rings when viewed from above, with picot edging on the outermost ring. The base should be flat, approximately 0.6 inch in diameter.
Section 3: Maple Leaves (Make 5)
Work 5 leaves total with these color variations: 2 leaves in Color B only 2 leaves with Color B body and Color C veins 1 leaf in Color C only
Each leaf has 5 lobes: 2 small lower lobes, 2 medium middle lobes, and 1 large top lobe.
Using 1.25 mm hook and Color A: Leaf Stem: Ch 8. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across back to base. (7 sl sts)
Switch to Color B (or C) by pulling the new color through the last sl st loop.
Main Spine Chain: Ch 9. Do not turn.
Lower Left Lobe (Lobe 1): Starting in 2nd ch of spine (counting from stem end), ch 5 for lobe branch.
Working up: In 2nd ch from hook: sc, sc, hdc, hdc, dc. (5 sts)
Working back down: dc, hdc, hdc, sc, sc. Sl st into spine ch where you started. (10 sts around branch)
Lower Right Lobe (Lobe 2): Sl st into next spine ch. Ch 5.
Up: sc, sc, hdc, hdc, dc. (5 sts)
Down: dc, hdc, hdc, sc, sc. Sl st into spine ch. (10 sts around branch)
Sl st along spine 2 more chains toward tip.
Middle Left Lobe (Lobe 3): Ch 6.
Up: sc, sc, hdc, dc, dc. (5 sts)
Down: dc, dc, hdc, sc, sc. Sl st into spine ch. (10 sts around branch)
Middle Right Lobe (Lobe 4): Sl st into next spine ch. Ch 6.
Up: sc, sc, hdc, dc, dc. (5 sts)
Down: dc, dc, hdc, sc, sc. Sl st into spine ch. (10 sts around branch)
Sl st along spine 2 more chains toward tip.
Top Center Lobe (Lobe 5): Ch 8.
Up: sc, sc, hdc, hdc, dc, dc, tr. (7 sts)
Down: tr, dc, dc, hdc, hdc, sc, sc. Sl st into spine ch. (14 sts around branch)
Work back down spine: Sl st into each remaining spine ch to stem base. Fasten off, leaving 6-inch tail.
Optional Veining: With Color C and tapestry needle, surface sl st along the center of each lobe from base to tip.
Checkpoint: Each leaf should measure approximately 0.75 inch wide by 0.9 inch long with 5 distinct lobes.
Section 4: Beaded Accent Chains (Make 6)
Using Color A and 1.25 mm hook, pre-string 4 beads: Ch 3.
Slide bead up, ch 1. Repeat 3 more times.
Ch 2. Fasten off, leaving 4-inch tails at each end.
Section 5: Sliding Closure
Thread 2 to 3 small seed beads onto each tail cord end from the base band. Tie a small overhand knot below the beads. Trim to approximately 1.5 inches below the knot. Apply fabric glue if desired.
Making the sliding barrel:
Cut a separate 4-inch length of Color A. Hold both tail cords parallel. Wrap the short thread around both cords approximately 6 times, forming a barrel. Thread the wrapping ends back through the barrel with a needle and knot securely.
Blocking (Do Not Skip This Step)
Block all pieces before assembly.
Soak each piece in cool water for 10 minutes. Gently squeeze out excess water without wringing. Pin each leaf flat on a foam blocking mat, using individual pins to hold each lobe open. Pin the base band straight and taut. Shape the rose gently with fingers but do not pin (this will flatten it). Allow everything to dry completely, at least 4 to 6 hours.
Do not block with beads attached.
Before the first stitch
- Pre-string approximately 50 beads onto Color A thread before starting the base band. Check that your beads fit on the beading needle first. The beads will sit on your ball of thread and slide forward as you need them.
- Read through the maple leaf lobe shaping once before starting your first leaf.
- Swatch a few rows in size 10 thread if you have never used a steel hook this small.
Minutes per piece
- Base band and spiral rose about 1 to 1.5 hours because each has just 3 to 6 rounds, but the bead placement and shell shaping need care
- Five maple leaves plus assembly about 2 to 3 hours because each leaf has five separate lobes to shape and then all five need stitching to the band
Other yarns that work
- Mercerized cotton thread, size 8 Slightly thicker stitches, a touch less drape, and you may need a size larger hook than stated.
- Bamboo or linen blend thread, size 10 A softer, less crisp leaf edge, so block firmly to keep the vein lines sharp.
Where it ends up
- Wear it stacked with a plain bangle for texture without extra bulk.
- Give it as a handmade gift for someone who collects detailed small pieces.
- Display it on a jewelry stand between wears, since the leaves hold shape best flat.
Joining up
- Step 1 Step 1: Lay the blocked base band flat with the beaded row facing up.
- Step 2 Step 2: Position the rose at the center of the band, slightly toward one side. Using Color A and tapestry needle, whipstitch around the rose base with 8 to 10 anchor points. Pull firmly, knot, and weave in.
- Step 3 Step 3: Arrange the 5 leaves in a fan below and around the rose base. Two leaves angle downward left, two angle downward right, one hangs straight down from center. Stitch each leaf stem to the band with 4 to 6 stitches. Knot and weave in.
- Step 4 Step 4: Attach beaded drop chains to leaf stem ends and the lower band edge, spacing evenly.
- Step 5 Step 5: Tack any loose beads along the top edge with a small stitch.
- Step 6 Step 6: Complete the sliding closure as described in Section 5.
- Step 7 Final Checkpoint: The bracelet should slip over your hand comfortably when fully open. The rose should sit flat and secure. No tails should be visible from the front.
Small notes
- Keep at least four stitch markers on hand for tracking lobe placement across the five leaves.
- Pre-string your beads before Row 1 of the base band. There is no way to add them later without cutting thread.
- Use smooth, tightly plied crochet cotton only. Avoid fuzzy threads or embroidery floss — stitch definition matters for the leaf veining and lace details.
- Gauge: base band gauge is 22 stitches and 10 rows = 1 inch (2.54 cm) in half double crochet mesh pattern using Color A and 1.65 mm hook, after blocking. Leaf gauge: one completed 5-lobe maple leaf measures approximately 0.75 inch (2 cm) wide by 0.9 inch (2.3 cm) long, using the 1.25 mm hook. Gauge matters here because the band needs to fit comfortably around a wrist — crochet a small swatch in the mesh pattern and measure after blocking; if your swatch is too large, go down a hook size, and if too small, go up.
- Finished measurements: circumference when worn approximately 6.5 to 7.5 inches (16.5 to 19 cm), adjustable; base band width approximately 0.5 inch (1.25 cm); rose diameter approximately 1.25 inches (3.2 cm); each leaf approximately 0.75 inch (2 cm) wide by 0.9 inch (2.3 cm) long; total cuff spread laid flat approximately 2.5 inches (6.4 cm) at widest point.
Little questions
Can I make this without pre-stringing beads?
Not with this construction, since the beads sit inside Row 3 of the band. You would need to add them with a separate needle-and-thread pass afterward. Pre-stringing is faster and keeps tension even.
How long does the whole bracelet actually take?
Plan for 4 to 6 hours total, spread across several sessions. The five leaves take the longest, at 20 to 30 minutes each. Doing one leaf per sitting keeps the shaping accurate.
Will the sliding closure really fit different wrist sizes?
Yes, it adjusts comfortably between 6.5 and 7.5 inches. The cords slide through the closure without a clasp. Just keep the knots even so both sides move together.
Original pattern: https://crochetwithmia.com/autumn-maple-vine-bracelet-free-crochet-pattern/
About the Author
Tamsin Okoro Who writes the patterns at Yarn Gallery, how a pattern gets from the hook to the page, and what this site will never do.
