Mushroom Granny Square Free Crochet Pattern (Cute 4-Inch Toadstool Block)

About This Pattern

This pattern turns a humble 4-inch granny square into a plump little toadstool with a red cap, white spots and a cream stem. It is a combined square: the mushroom is crocheted as a separate appliqué and then sewn onto a solid granny square base, which means you can mix and match the mushroom with any background square you already love. It's ideal for anyone who loves cottagecore blankets, cushion covers, forest-themed baby projects, or a scrap-busting square that actually looks like something

The construction is the fun part: rows 1-3 shape the mushroom cap back and forth, working into the back loops of a starting chain of 12 for the underside curve, and then row 4 rotates the work 180 degrees to pick up the third loops of that same chain from the opposite side for the stem. You'll use increases in dc, tr and hdc, joined clusters like [dc(ch2)+dc+hdc+hdc]tog, and a live loop set aside at the end of row 3 that gets picked up again once the stem is finished. Expect around 2-3 hours for your first square, less once the rhythm clicks

Worked in DK sport weight with a 3.00mm hook, the finished square lands at roughly 4.1 x 4.1 inches - small enough to join into a blanket without endless seaming, big enough for the mushroom details to show. The dense fabric holds its shape beautifully, so the cap stays domed and the stem stays crisp. Make one as a coaster, a handful for a tote panel, or forty-eight for a full cottagecore throw that friends will absolutely ask about

Crochet Abbreviations

ch

chain stitch

ch-sp

chain space

dc

double crochet

sc

single crochet

tr

treble crochet

hdc

half double crochet

inc

increase

rep

repeat

st

stitch

slst / sl st

slip stitch

sk

skip

TLO

third loop only

tog

together

hdc2tog

half double crochet two stitches together

Mushroom Granny Square Free Crochet Pattern (Cute 4-Inch Toadstool Block)

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Important Notes

Common Mistakes and Fixes

• Working row 2 into the wrong loops of the foundation chain

  Row 2 specifically asks for the BACK loops of chains 10 through 3. If you work under both loops here, the third loops won't be free for row 4 and you won't be able to pick the chain back up from the other side for the stem. Lay the chain flat with the bumps facing you and count carefully - it's worth double-checking before you commit to eight stitches

• Cutting the yarn at the end of row 3

  The pattern says to set the loop aside for later use, and it means it. That loop is what you return to after the stem is finished in row 11, so pull it long, slip a locking stitch marker through it, and park it. If you've already cut it, you can re-insert your hook into the last stitch and pull a new loop through, but the join will be slightly visible

• Miscounting the joined clusters like [dc(ch2)+dc+hdc+hdc]tog

  These are four stitches drawn together, and the ch2 sits inside the first dc to give the cluster height. Crocheters often stop after three legs or skip the ch2 entirely, which makes the edge pull in and lose its curve. Work each leg to its last loop, keep all loops on the hook, then yarn over and pull through everything at once

• Forgetting the ch1 turning chain on the stem rows

  Every stem row starts with turn over, ch1. That ch1 is not counted as a stitch - it just lifts you to sc height. Skipping it makes the stem edges pucker; counting it as a stitch adds width you don't want. Your sc counts should read 3, 4, 4, 5 across rows 5-7, 8, 9 and 10 exactly as written

• Losing the tr-increase placement across the crown

  The row 3 sequence runs dc-inc, tr-inc, 2tr, tr-inc, dc-inc and that symmetry is what domes the cap. If you place a tr-inc one stitch off, one side of the mushroom will sit higher than the other. Drop a stitch marker in the center 2tr before you start the row so you can check you're mirroring correctly on the way back down

• Pulling the second color too tight

  Joining the fresh stem yarn at the 1st chain in row 4 often leaves a tight, puckered corner. Leave a 6-inch tail, keep the first cluster deliberately loose, and weave the tail in along the chain edge rather than pulling it to close the gap. A too-tight join distorts the whole mushroom and shows badly once the square is joined into a blanket

What Makes It Good

• I fell for this square the moment the cap took shape. There's a genuinely satisfying moment in row 4 when you rotate the work 180 degrees and start crocheting into the third loops of that original chain of 12 - suddenly the flat strip you've been fussing over grows a stem and becomes a real mushroom. And the tr-increases across the top edge in row 3? They're what give the cap that gentle dome instead of a flat semicircle, and I love how visible the difference is. The other thing I adore is the little loop you set aside at the end of row 3. It feels like a small act of trust: you leave it hanging, build the entire stem in short 3-and-4 stitch rows, then slip your hook back in and carry on as if nothing happened. Tidy, clever, no extra joins. The stem itself is quick - sc rows with one increase each, then a sneaky sk2 to taper the base - so the whole thing stays interesting right to the last stitch. Two colors, one evening, one very cute mushroom

Frequently Asked Questions

• How big is the finished mushroom granny square?

  Worked in DK sport weight yarn with a 3.00mm hook, the square measures about 4.1 x 4.1 inches. Your gauge may vary slightly, so block one square first and measure before you commit to a full blanket's worth

• How much yarn do I need for one square?

  One square uses roughly 12-15 yards total across both colors, with the base square taking the larger share. A standard 50g DK ball will make somewhere around 10-12 squares, so a 48-square baby blanket needs about four to five balls of the background color plus two or three for the mushroom

• Can I use worsted weight yarn instead of DK?

  Absolutely - move up to a 4.00mm or 4.50mm hook and your square will finish around 5 to 5.5 inches instead of 4.1. No stitch counts need to change, but blocking becomes more important because worsted squares tend to bow slightly at the corners

• What does it mean to set the loop aside in row 3?

  Instead of fastening off, you pull the working loop long and leave it live while you crochet the mushroom stem with the second color. Once row 11 is complete you insert your hook back into that saved loop and work row 12 - it avoids an extra join and keeps the cap edge seamless

• Is this square beginner-friendly?

  It's best suited to confident advanced beginners or intermediate crocheters. You'll need to be comfortable working into back loops and third loops separately, making dc and tr increases, and reading joined-cluster notation like [dc(ch2)+dc+hdc+hdc]tog - but every individual stitch is a standard one you likely already know

• Do I have to use a solid granny square as the base?

  No - the mushroom is a separate appliqué that gets sewn to the center of the base, so you can use the solid granny square given here or swap in a basic granny square, or any other 4.1-inch square you already like. That flexibility is the point of the combined design